This article is written by request. Sometimes all the technical jargon is difficult to understand. I am not here to tell you which product to provide, I’m just here to break down what is happening with our gel products today. Truthfully, I am of the opinion, lacquer will soon again, be the #1 choice of polish in our salons.
As nail technicians, we pick up a bottle of gel a hundred times a week. We know the color, the brand, and how it cures. However, most of us have never turned that bottle over and read what is actually in it.
That needs to change. And right now is the perfect time to start.
What Happened in Europe
Many gel products use an ingredient called TPO. Its long name is trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide. You do not need to remember the long name. You only need to know what it does.
TPO is a photoinitiator. That simply means it is the ingredient that reacts to the light in your lamp and makes the gel harden. No photoinitiator, no cure.
On September 1, 2025, the European Union banned TPO in nail products. The UK has moved in the same direction. Nail technicians across Europe had to stop using any gel that contained it.
Why It Is Still Legal Here
The United States has not banned TPO. That is because our FDA looks at things differently than Europe does.
To break it down:
- Europe asks, “Could this ingredient cause harm?” If the answer is yes, it can be banned.
- The FDA asks, “Is this ingredient causing harm the way people are actually using it?”
So gels with TPO are still legal to buy and use in the US. However, legal does not mean it is the best choice for every client in your chair.
The Industry Is Already Moving
Here is what you need to know. Manufacturers are not waiting on the FDA. Many brands have already switched to different photoinitiators. You will see more and more bottles that say “TPO-free” and “HEMA-free” right on the label.
HEMA is another ingredient worth knowing. It is a monomer that helps gel stick to the nail. It is also one of the most common reasons technicians and clients develop allergies to gel products. Once a person becomes allergic, that allergy usually stays for life.
A few years ago, “HEMA-free” and “TPO-free” were special claims from a handful of brands. Today they are becoming the standard. The lines that made that switch early are already ahead of the curve.
Why This Matters So Much in Foot Care
Our clients are not always healthy, young, and easy. We work on diabetic feet. We work on thin, fragile, dry skin. We work on clients going through chemotherapy and radiation.
For those clients, an ingredient reaction is not a small cosmetic problem. It is a clinical problem. Their skin may already be breaking down. Their immune system may already be under stress. A rash, a lift, or an allergic reaction can turn into a real setback in their care.
That is exactly why we teach ingredient reading in our Oncology class.
How We Teach It in the Oncology Class
In class, we do not just talk about ingredients. We pick up the bottles and read them together. Every student learns how to:
- Find the full ingredient list on a product or its Safety Data Sheet (SDS)
- Spot TPO by its full name on the label
- Spot HEMA, which is listed as hydroxyethyl methacrylate
- Notice look-alike ingredients. For example, a “HEMA-free” gel may still contain other methacrylates, such as Di-HEMA. And TPO-L is a different ingredient than TPO. A similar name does not mean the same thing, so we teach you to ask.
- Ask the manufacturer the right questions when the label does not give you a clear answer
WE have heard from our students who tell us this is one of the most eye-opening parts of the class. Many of them realize they have been working with products for years without ever knowing what was inside.
Remember, hope is not a protocol. Hoping a product is safe for your oncology client is not the same as knowing it is.
Be Proactive, Not Reactive
You do not have to wait for a law to change before you make a better choice. The technicians who wait end up scrambling. The technicians who plan ahead are ready.
Look for lines that are already ahead of the curve. Brands that are TPO-free and HEMA-free today did the work before anyone made them. That tells you something about how that company thinks.
Think about it from a business side too. If the US ever does follow Europe, anyone holding a shelf full of old product will be stuck with it. If you have already made the switch, nothing changes for you.
Do Your Due Diligence
A label claim is a good starting point. However, it is not the whole story. Before you bring any gel system into your treatment room, do your homework:
- Read the full ingredient list. Not just the front of the bottle. The whole list.
- Ask for the SDS. A professional brand will hand it to you without hesitation.
- Ask the manufacturer directly. Ask which photoinitiator they use and whether the product contains HEMA or other methacrylates.
- Use the lamp the brand recommends. Gel that is not fully cured leaves uncured product on the nail and skin. That is a common cause of reactions, even with a clean formula.
- Keep product off the skin. No ingredient list can protect a client from sloppy application.
If a company cannot or will not answer your questions, that is your answer.
Knowing Is Your Job
Our clients trust us to know what we are putting on their bodies. That trust is even greater with an oncology client who has already been through so much.
Reading a label takes two minutes. It is one of the simplest things you can do to protect your clients, protect yourself, and protect your business.
If you want to learn how to read ingredients with confidence and serve oncology clients the right way, we would love to have you in our Oncology class at Centre for Beauty. Bring your questions. Bring your bottles. We will read them together.
Outcome-based education which drives product selection & confident sales!
